Maxim Peak Climbing Route: From flat area west-northwest of peak head up moraine for glacier. Head right for summit ridge. On ridge traverse left on exposed knife-edged crest -- about 2-4 hours for ascent.

Mocha Peak Climbing Route: From dilapidated hut climb up the ridge joining Cerro Piedra Negra with Carihuariazo and follow the ridge towards Carihuairazo for about 1 km. This is a 4-6 hour climb on fairly steep snow/rock. The route is constantly changing so route finding is necessary and no obvious route exists.

Suggested Reading: Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador, 4th Edition

Getting There: From the Terminal Terrestre in Quito take a Riobamba bus. About an hour out of Ambato you will see a sign on the left which says Rio Blanco. Just down the road are some buildings and a school on the right. Get off here and follow the road going left from the community heading towards Laguna Negra (3-5 hours hike). Camping is possible here or you may choose to head up another hour to a camp just below the glacier by heading left of peak 4698 and up to the ridge behind this peak. Then follow the cairns to a rocky field. Note: You can drive through this vicuna reserve but sometimes will be stopped and asked for your permission from the MAG office in Cuenca. In addition, it is very risky to leave anything in camp as robberies have been reported.

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Created by SAE member Tim Tadder, www.cotopaxi.com
Changes or updates? Please email ttadder@fcaq.k12.ec