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The Picos Jarrin route seen from the
basin below the refugio
Picos
Jarrin Route:
This is the main climbing route for Cayambe. In fact few
people ever explore other routes on this mountain. From
the refugio follow the many trails up the rock band towards
the glacier. You will spend an hour on scree and rocks before
you actually reach the glacier. There are numerous paths
and all eventually lead up and to the ice. Note that once
you reach the top of the scree, cross an open flat area
(good for camping), descend 10 meters heading right away
from a lake then up and left towards the glacier. Keep the
arete on your left as you ascend until you reach ice. Once
on the glacier head left across a gentle slope towards a
large rock band. Before reaching the rockband begin heading
up towards the diamond shape rock known as Picos Jarrin
(seen above in picture). Skirt Picos Jarrin to the right
and head for the saddle between Santa Barbara peak and the
main peak. There are a few large crevasses in this area.
The climb steepens considerably as you approach the headwall.
Ascend directly up the headwall (35 - 40 degrees). You will
reach a large Bergschrund which can be negotiated by traversing
north west and ascending the Santa Barbara peak, then climbing
up to the main peak. Ascent takes 6 to 9 hours. Depart between
11:00 PM and 1:00 AM
Additional
Routes:
East Peak, Santa Barbara
Suggested
Reading: Climbing
and Hiking in Ecuador 4th edition
Getting
There: Reaching Cayambe is easy. Either take a
bus from Quito North to town of Cayambe 1 1/2 hours, then
transport can be hired to the refugio. The road is poor
near the end so pick a four wheel drive vehicle. The road
to the refugio leaves the Pan American highway at the park
on the south end of town. Make a soft right keeping the
park on the left. Just after the park take a hard right.
Follow this until a Church plaza. The road turns left then
right around the plaza and continues up on cobble stones
eventually turning to dirt and rocks. Just past Hacienda
Pimonte (lower) the road splits, take the high road on the
right, and continue climbing. 1 hour from Cayambe 3 hours
from Quito.
Created by SAE member Tim Tadder, www.cotopaxi.com
Changes or updates? Please email ttadder@fcaq.k12.ec
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South
American Explorers