Chimborazo seen from the north side, the route follows the ridge on the right side of this photo. Notice the difference in distance between the Veintimilla and Whymper summits

Climbing Chimborazo via the Normal Route: This route has changed in the last few years and has replaced the Whymper route because of dangerous rockfall. The normal route now must be accessed via the Thielman Glacier (the starting point for the direct route) Head up this first steep but short section of ice and then you must traverse left towards a prominent rock band known as El Castillo. From here begin the long snow slog right or northwest toward the Ventimilla summit. From the ventimilla summit head towards the true summit by crossing a large snowfield. This snowfield can be difficult with recent snow due to altitude and fatigue. A midnight departure from the refugio is recommended and you can expect a climb of 8-10 hours to the summit and about a 2-4 hour return to the refugio. Wanding the route is highly recommended.

Climbing Chimborazo via the Direct Route: This route basically heads straight up the Thielman Glacier all the way to the Ventimilla summit. This route can take anywhere from 8-12 hours depending on conditions. This route is prone to avalanche danger and is often heavily crevassed. Descend via the normal route.

Additional Routes: Whymper route; Sun Ridge route; Piedra Negra

Suggested Reading: Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador, 4th edition.

Getting There: Take a bus from Ambato to Guranda. About 55km outside of Ambato you will see a white cement house on the left with a dirt road. Walk along this dirt road for about 4km and at the big bend head left for another 4km until you reach the lower refugio. You can stay here or head up another 30 minutes to the Whymper refugio. Be sure to take note of the gravestones on the way up to the Whymper refugio -- a not so subtle reminder of the dangers presented on this mountain. The refugio can sleep about 40 people and has all the amenities necessary.

You can also stay in Riobamba and take a taxi from here to the lower refugio.

Created by SAE member Tim Tadder, www.cotopaxi.com
Changes or updates? Please email ttadder@fcaq.k12.ec