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Comercially climbed route on Ecuador's
most frequently climbed mountian.
Main
Climbing Route:
Climbing Cotopaxi is often like attending a crowded party.
You can expect lots of people in the refugio and just as
many people climbing the standard route. The route itself
is often a trench so that following the route can be a rather
mindless experience. Nevertheless, the beauty of this mountain
remains intact and like any glaciated mountain this one
must be treated with caution and respect. Ropes, axes, crampons,
etc are necessary despite the rather nonchalant descriptions
in many guidebooks. From the main parking lot ascend the
clearly marked trail to the refugio, a hike of about 30
minutes depending on your condition. From the refugio, follow
the well-marked scree slope to the right of the refugio
and up towards the glacier. From the refugio to the glacier
is approximately an hour's hike. Once on the glacier head
south and up towards the big black rock known as Yanasacha
seen in the photo above. Traverse right of Yanasacha and
angle up to the right. On your left will find a steep snow
ramp (40 - 50 degrees) heading up to a snow ledge (filled
bergschrund). At the ledge traverse left 100 feet to its
end and find a metal ladder heading up to a steep snow pitch.
This is exposed so be careful. From here continue to summit.
Additonal
Routes:
South
Side, Yanasacha Traverse
Suggested
Reading: Climbing
and Hiking in Ecuador, 4th Edition
Getting
There: The access to the park is 1 1/2 hours south
of Quito on the Pan American Highway and marked by a sign.
Have a bus let you off at the sign. Trucks can be hired
here for transport to the refugio, but be sure to arrange
return transport from you driver. Only pay them for each
trip after the trip is complete! The park
entrance is another twenty minutes up this dirt track from
the Pan American highway. Be aware the park closes at 3:00
PM sharp, so leave plenty of time to hire transport to get
into the park. You can drive to within a 30 to 40 minute
walk to the refugio.
Created by SAE member Tim Tadder, www.cotopaxi.com
Changes or updates? Please email ttadder@fcaq.k12.ec
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South
American Explorers