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Argentina

As the world's 8th largest country, Argentina's diversity in environment and terrain can satisfy almost any interest. Whether you're into the cosmopolitan, tango loving/coffee drinking Buenos Aires, climbing Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas, gazing in awe at the thundering Iguazu Falls or playing with penguins at the end of the world in Tierra del Fuego - one thing's for sure you'll be looking to extend your stay in Argentina!

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is buzzing with energy and you'll certainly want to dedicate as much time as possible to experience all the city has to offer. The city sprawls out in all directions from its northern boundary of the River Plate and is home to some 13 million people - however most places of interest to travelers are concentrated in just a few neighborhoods or barrios.

The hustle and bustle of downtown business occurs in the Microcentro. Nearby, Plaza de Mayo is filled with lots of pigeons, political protests and historic buildings, of which the most notable is the government house or Casa Rosada.

In San Telmo, the narrow cobblestone streets and low-story colonial housing make this one of the most historically rich and charming barrios. Plaza Dorrego is the heart of this barrio and the perfect place to explore on a Sunday, perusing the antiques market, watching tango shows or simply sitting in a cafe watching the world go by

Tourists often head to La Boca to snap photos of the picturesque bright colorful houses or to check out La Bombonera, home to the Boca Juniors soccer team. Going to a game here is a sure way to experience first hand the Argentines great passion for football!

The city's newest renovation project is the waterfront area of Puerto Madero, where old abandoned brick warehouses have been transformed into upscale restaurants, ritzy offices and loft housing. Stroll along the water, try out one of the tasty steak restaurants or come at night to dance the night away in some of BA's trendiest discos. Nearby you'll also find the Reserva Ecol'gica which is a nature reserve at the bank of Rio de la Plata where you can either walk or bicycle along the trails, watch interesting birds and plants, or just enjoy the quiet surroundings for a while - all this while you see the skyline of Microcentro in the back.

Then head to Recoleta where the city's wealthiest citizens live. With tall leafy trees, wide avenues, upscale boutiques, caf's, museums and French architecture, its no wonder BA has earned the nickname "Paris of the South"! Arguably the city's number one tourist attraction is the Recoleta Cemetery, where you can wander for hours in the city of the dead, peeking into the crypts to see the remains of the city's most elite. Follow the tour groups to find your way to Evita's grave.

Northwest from here you'll end up in Palermo, the city's largest barrio. From large, grassy parks with grand monuments, a zoo, bike paths and peaceful lakes to cutting-edge boutiques with fashion from local up and coming designers, fabulous eateries and a fun buzzing nightlife for the hip crowd - Palermo has got it all!

Northeast Argentina

Without a doubt the main attraction in this region is the spectacular Iguazu Falls. The falls are split between Argentina and Brazil within 2,100 sq km of national park - home to tons of plant and wildlife species, among them the tame raccoon that might nip at your feet or try to grab your bags on the trails. The Argentine side is great for seeing individual falls up close with numerous walking trails, one brings you right up to within feet of the Garganta del Diablo - the spectacular Devil's Throat, while the Brazilian side allows you a jaw dropping panoramic view.

Don't miss the ruins of the 17th century Jesuit missions; San Ignacio Mini is the best preserved in the upper Paran' River. This area is heaven for nature enthusiasts as the national parks boast an abundance of flora and fauna species.

If you happen to be in the area in January or February, try not to miss Argentina's own version of 'Carnaval' in Gualeguaych', Entre Rios, that transforms this tranquil town into a place full of life and celebration.

Pampas and the Atlantic Coast

If the heat of the city is getting to you and you want to cool down, then the Atlantic Coast just south of Buenos Aires is the place to go. Stretching from La Plata to Bahia Blanca there is over 500km of sandy beaches to choose from. However of all the resorts Mar del Plata stands out as the crowd puller. Big, busy and brash this resort is invaded each summer by people from Buenos Aires or porte'os. It is not the place to go though if you're looking for wide, empty beaches as it actually is a city of 700,000 inhabitants. It's the only resort that's worth a visit in the low season though. It has a handful of museums and galleries and it's also a big movie town, hosting an annual film festival.

The place to be in terms of up market beach towns is the popular town Pinamar, with only around 25 000 inhabitants. Pinamar is all about fashionable beach bars, loud music, packed beaches with a mix of the young and beautiful and families plus the occasional fashion show.

Heading in from the coast the beaches give way to the pampas, which stretch across central Argentina to the west where they meet the Andes. This is arguably the most traditional of Argentine landscapes - rolling green pastures under endless blue skies with sun worshippers replaced by cows and the occasional gaucho. And if you ever thought 'I wanna be a cowboy baby', then you can try your hand at it here, Argentine style! The estancias (ranches) found on the pampas can be as big as some European countries and it's possible to stay at them and help out with the farm work for a weekend or even a month. There are also more exclusive guest estancias that are run as bed and breakfasts, where you can go either for a day ( called Dia de campo) or to stay over. Normally they include activities such as horseback riding and barbeques or asados.

Just a couple of hours northwest of Buenos Aires, you'll find the quaint gaucho town San Antonio de Areco, a charming little town steeped in gaucho traditions and beautiful architecture. Don't miss the 'Dia de la Tradici'n' in November, a festival celebrating the gaucho lifestyle.

There is more though to this region than just beaches and cowboys! Heading a little further south the low lying Sierra de la Ventana provide a great location for hiking, climbing, horse riding, biking, kayaking and fishing.

The Andean Northwest

Argentina's northwest is regarded as a somewhat far flung undiscovered corner of the country (even for Argentines). The birthplace of Argentina, it is probably the country's most traditional region.

Here you can find Salta, a beautiful and gracious city and by far the most happening city in this region. Wander through the colonial architecture by day and party with the locals by night. Salta is famous for its pe'as ' lively informal folk music clubs.

The Quebrada de Humahuaca, a multi-colored psychedelic canyon runs through the centre of the Jujuy province, just to the north of Salta. Tilcara, a pre-Incan fortress village, is a great place to stop off while you explore the intense beauty of the landscapes of the Quebrada.

To the south west of Salta some of the world's highest vineyards can be found in the Valles Calchaquies amidst the beautiful highland valley. You can easily spend a day visiting bodegas and sipping some of the finest Syrah of Argentina. Also stop by Cachi, a quaint little town with cobble stoned streets, adobe houses and gorgeous surroundings. A little further south of Cachi is Cafayate, a popular place among the tourists, which is a small and quiet village that has its own artist community and a local handicrafts market. From here you'll also have the wineries within walking distance!

You can take the 'Tren a las Nubes' from Salta (Train to the Clouds) through the multicolored Quebrada del Toro, past tobacco fields and the important ruins of Tastil. The train crosses bridges and viaducts and you'll get to see some spectacular views.

The southern part of the region is less developed and seemingly dismissed by the rest of the country. Yet there are definite treasures here awaiting the curious. The Puna Catamarque'a, an altiplano, stretches through the northwest of the Catamarca province, to the Chilean border. If far flung is what you're looking for then this is where to find it ' you'll also find some of the most beautiful landscapes in the country. Look out for llamas and vicu'as among the salt-lakes, take in the panorama of the Andes and check out the flocks of flamingos before arriving in Antofagosta de la Sierra, a bleak yet peaceful oasis amidst the surrounding volcanoes and the Cordillera Andes. The solitude here is increased during the festival of the dead, when the population speaks in whispers so as not to disturb their forefathers. Try to get a local guide to take you north of here to the salt plains, dazzling white in contrast to the mountains behind.

If you happen to wander down from all this quietness into the city of Tucuman you'll experience a startling contrast. While there is not much in the way of attractions in this city it certainly is a brash and lively place that has a reputation for its heavy-duty nightlife!

Cordoba and the Sierras

Bang right in the centre of the country is the city and province of Cordoba. Cordoba is Argentina's second city and has a very young and vibrant feel, due to the large student population. The Jesuits set up what is now the oldest university in Argentina here back in 1610. The city is surrounded by lots of villages nestled up in the mountains between lakes and great views. Try to check out a comedy show if your Spanish is up to it as the dark and dry cordobese humour is legendary.

Jesuit influence is hard to escape in the area and the estancias of Jesus Maria, Villa Tulumba and Santa Catalina, hidden in the hills have some of the finest example of Jesuit art in the country.

The Punilla Valley between two sierras (Chicas and Grande) offers brash resorts and quiet getaways. Horseback riding and hiking as well as crowded discos and bars are some of the activities offered here. For those of you who want to soar in the sky then La Cumbre (and Cerro Mirador) is where hang gliding is the game of the day. International competitions are held here annually.

If you're more into watching the birds fly high then Parque Nacional de la Quebrada del Condorito offers the visitors a chance to see condors in their natural habitat.

Anyone in the area around October with a longing for beer should go to the Oktoberfest, held annually in the Villa General Belgrano. This should help your thirst out! The residents here are also chocoholics and have at least two chocolate festivals annually.

Right in the middle of Cordoba and Villa General Belgrano you'll find Alta Gracia. This town started out in life as a Jesuit mission and later became the childhood home to one of Argentina's most famous men - Che Guevara.

Mendoza and the Central Andes

Mendoza IS wine country. In recent years the Argentine wine industry has really taken off and without a doubt it is centred in Mendoza. The vineyards here experience endless sunny days coupled with fresh melt water from the glaciers and this combination produces some very tasty tipples, of which Malbec is the most famous. The city itself is one of Argentina's most vibrant and stylish. Drop in between mid February and mid March for the annual wine festival.

You can't leave without taking a tour around some of the wineries and bodegas. Spend a day cycling around wineries of Maipu and Lujan de Cuyo or get someone else to drive you about while you just drink!

If you don't feel like staying in Mendoza you can choose to stay in one of the cute little towns just outside the city; Maipu, Lujan de Cuyo or Chacras de Coria this way you'll actually be closer to the bodegas!

As you're sipping your glass of wine at some point your gaze will fall on the mountains. They're hard to miss, unless you're really enjoying that wine! If the view of the snowcapped Andes Cordillera does draw you out of the city then there's plenty to keep you entertained up there.

Just three hours west of the city is Aconcagua, a climber's dream. Aconcagua, the highest peak on the planet outside of the Himalayas, has in recent years become one of the top climbing destinations in the world. Standing 6959 meters tall, the peak is capped by five glaciers. Don't miss the natural wonder 'Puente del Inca', a stone bridge surrounded by warm sulfuric waters which used to have a spa underneath it and from which you can see the old ruins. Take a dip in one of the natural pools and enjoy the warm water while admiring stunning views of the Andes and the Aconcagua.

If you're looking for the chicest of the chic in snow sports the Las Le'as resort is for you. Here you can ski, snowboard or just hangout with rich South Americans. Snow polo, snow rugby, snow volleyball and fashion shows are also on offer as entertainment.

The provinces of San Juan and La Rioja to the north of Mendoza are much quieter, with less than three people per square kilometre. But these provinces have two of the most photographed and protected areas in the country - Parque Nacional Talampaya and Parque Provincial Ischigualasto (more commonly called Valle de la Luna). The former offers 180 meter high red sandstone cliffs. Standing at the base of these will make you feel tiny! The best time to visit is in the morning while 70km away and best to see at dusk is Valle de la Luna with its dazzling, out of this world lunarscapes. Previously a dinosaur stomping ground, today it's home to hares, foxes, armadillos, condors and bats.

Neuquen and The Lake District

Neuquen and the Lake District lie at the Northwest of Patagonia. Travelling from north to south you move from a desert like landscape to an area of thick forests, glacial lakes, mountain peaks and extinct volcanoes - contrasts, eh!

The northern part of Neuquen is famed for its past residents - the dinosaurs! Just west of the Neuqu'n town the skeletons of the biggest dinosaurs ever found were dug up here back in 1988 - and you can check out the biggest monster of all as it is reconstructed in the centre of plaza Huincal.

Heading due west from Dino land you hit Villa Pehuenia. It's in the middle of an unspoiled area that has large forests of monkey-puzzle trees. This little town is situated on the banks of Lago Alumine and from here you can catch a view of eight volcanoes. The surrounding mountains provide great walks in the summer and lots of winter sports when it gets a little colder.

Parque Nacional Lanin is the most northernly of Patagonia's parks and dominating the view is the Volcan Lanin. Believed to be extinct, the volcano is a steep but rewarding climb with spectacular views.

San Martin de los Andes is one of the prettiest Patagonian towns that you'll find. A chalet resort in the mountains, think Swiss Alps and then enlarge everything, the mountains, lakes, trees. All the residents here seem to emulate the Swiss in their eating habits ' fondue and chocolate are big! It's a busy place both in the winter but particularly at the height of the summer, although it is a quieter option than Bariloche. This is a great base for exploring Parque Nacional Lanin and it marks the beginning of the 'Ruta Siete Lagos'. The Ruta Siete Lagos is one of Argentina's most beautiful drives. From San Martin de los Andes to Villa La Angostura to Bariloche you cut through Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, passing through thick forests and by at least seven lakes. If you have camping equipment ' be sure to bring it! The lakes offer some gorgeous camping opportunities, also good for those on a budget and you can easily travel by bus between the lakes.

This winding route brings you all the way down to Bariloche, which lies at the south of the park, spread on the banks of Lago Nahuel Huapi. Bariloche is an extremely popular place, with travellers and Argentines alike so if you visit at holiday times don't expect to have this beautiful Swiss-like town to yourself. Although, if you seek nature and solitude there are several great excursion opportunities from the town itself and if you're a beer fan don't miss out on a visit to the Blest Beer Factory in Bariloche, a truly charming place with excellent beer!South of Bariloche, El Bols'n provides a laid-back setting for sunny picnics and leisurely hikes.

After going on the run from the law Butch and the Sundance Kid decided that this area was as good a place as any to set up shop. They spent seven years here, finally going on the run again, this time to Chile, after robbing all the near by financial institutions. El Bols'n started out in life as a hippy community and still retains this charm today. You can't leave without trying the local fruit and beer - both are delicious!

The southernmost part of this region is the most Patagonian in feel. There are more lakes to see in the Parque Nacional Los Alerces but it is less crowded here, and less developed. The navy blue Lago Futulaufquen has some of the best fishing in this part of the country. Rafting and hiking is also possible through the Valvidivian rainforests, where the alerce, the longest living tree, grows around the lakes and on the mountainsides. This is also the resting place of La Trochita, Theroux's famous Old Patagonian Express.

Patagonia

Patagonia is VAST! But within all this vastness are some of the most amazing sights on the continent, and there's something for everyone, from wildlife to adventure sports to spectacular landscapes.

If you're a wildlife lover then the Atlantic Coast is for you. To start with there is Peninsula Valdez. This protected region will be like a dream for you! Its surrounding waters have been called the Serengeti of the Seas. Here you'll find penguins, sea lions, Orcas (killer whales), elephant seals and the southern right whales, who return annually to this spot for breeding. Well if it's good enough for Darwin..!

The nearby town of Puerto Madryn makes a great place to base yourself for exploring Valdez. It's also the centre of the Argentine diving industry with lots of offshore wrecks as well as wildlife for you to check out! This is where the first Welsh settlers landed back in 1865 but if you want to sample the famous welsh tea on offer in this region then you'll need to head a little further inland to Trelew or Gaiman - even Princess Di stopped off here for a cuppa!

Just over 100km south of here is another treat. Punto Tombo - home to a colony of over 500,000 Magellan penguins. Standing in the midst of all these little waddling tuxedo-wearers really is an unforgettable experience.

The RN-30 is the highway that connects the coastal towns right down to Rio Gallegos on the southeastern tip of Patagonia. Halfway down this you should turn off to check out Puerto Deseado, where you can go swimming with the dolphins.

On the other side of Patagonia the RN-40 links the country from north to south. If you're driving through the country this will probably be your best and worst friend! The southern stretch of this highway is the most famous, a bit like Route 66 in the US, it has inspired poets and songsters alike. At times it's more like a gravel dirt road than a highway and you need to take extreme caution when motoring not to flip your car over. Drive carefully! The Cordillera de los Andes lie 90km to the west of the RN-40 and there are many turn off points for you to take a break from the road and enjoy the mountains.

The further south you head on this route the more isolated you'll feel, as you pass by hundreds of deserted estancias, and even a moonscape where dinosaur skeletons have been found. The Cueva de las Manos Pintadas is one of South America's best examples of cave painting. Hike or horse ride your way here through the spectacular Ca'on de Rio Pinturas and you'll feel like you are going through the set of a western film. Your reward is a collage of prehistoric handprints, dating back to the Toldense Culture of 7300 BC.

Arguably Patagonia's biggest draw is its national parks. They just invite the traveller to spend days walking through them.

Parque Nacional Perito Moreno, one of Argentina's first national parks, is also one of the least visited. The natural beauty here isn't on a par with other parks in the region but what is on offer is peace and solitude. There are not a lot of travellers trekking about the park so you have a better chance of coming face to face with the wildlife - guanacos, pumas, huemals, condors, black-necked swans and pygmy owls are among the permanent residents. In the northern area of the park you can view a real 'Himalayan sight' at the southeastern face of San Lorenzo. Also you should check out the most intense turquoise lake you're likely to see anywhere in Patagonia, Lago Pelgrano, in the central sector of the park. Confusingly this is not the park where the Perito Moreno glacier is, that's in the Parque de los Glaciers, which is, in Argentine terms, near-by.

Parque de los Glaciers was declared a 'Patrimony of Humanity' in 1981, so it must have something good to offer! Here you can find the biggest icecap on the planet after the two poles, one of the world's last two advancing glaciers and a climbers dream, the Fitzroy massif. The park can be divided into north and south. The northern part contains the Fitzroy massif. El Chalt'n is the friendly little town that acts as the information centre in this part of the park. You can even get in a bit of ice climbing training here! From El Chalt'n even the unfittest of you can take in a days trekking to view the surrounding landscape. The Fitzroy massif contains what are simply some of the most breathtakingly beautiful mountain peaks on the planet. Try to catch a glimpse at sunrise as they turn a fierce pink colour.

Not to be outdone, the southern part of the park also has amazing treats! El Calafate, on Lago Argentino, is the place to set up camp. Horse riding and forest trips are available here but the main attraction is of course the world famous glaciers. People flock here from all over the world so don't expect to be on your own. The Perito Moreno glacier takes pride of place here, being one of the only two last remaining advancing glaciers in the world today. You can look and listen in awe as it grinds it way forward into the lake. You can also sail by Glacier Upsala, dodging icebergs as you go.

Tierra del Fuego

The end of the world, the uttermost of the earth! This archipelago, shared by Chile and Argentina, lies across the Magellan Straits from mainland South America. You'll be following in the footsteps of some of history's greatest explorers (such as Magellan and Darwin) by venturing this far south. Don't let the romantic name mislead you - it's definitely the land of icy coldness! Ushuaia is the largest town in the Argentine territory. It is situated beautifully between the Andes and the Beagle Channel. Flying into this town is definitely one of the most exciting landings you'll ever have.

Argentines claim Ushuaia to be the southernmost town in the world, however the Chilean residents of Puerto Williams that live just across the Beagle Channel would beg to differ! Ushuaia is definitely a busy spot and when you're here you should not miss out on the local delicacy, centolla (king crab).

From here you can set out on a voyage down Beagle Channel from where you can enjoy some of the best views of the town with the mountains in the background. The touristy Tren del Fin del Mundo sets out from the town and is a great way to reach one of the entrances to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego. You can spend days walking round the park on its beautiful paths. The more adventurous of you can even embark on an expedition to the great white continent of Antarctica; Ushuaia is the nearest port!


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