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Climbing
Obisbo:
The Italian route is nearly impossible now due to lack of
snow. A more reasonable climb is to try the Arista Del Calvario
or the Variant of this route. The route pictured above is
the Variant route. From the Italian camp scramble down some
low class 4 rock and traverse across some rocky scree. Eventually
you will need to bear left and up towards the glacier and
positioning yourself as pictured above. Once on the glacier
traverse across heading towards the base of Obispo. Head
for the obvious snow ramp at the base of the mountain. You
may have to negotiate a small rock band as you head up this
ramp. From here angle right up the couloir where you can
expect a mix of rock/ice that is approximately an 80 degree
pitch. From here head up towards ice wall and traverse right
underneath it. Eventually you will need to head up another
gully to your left to access the final couloir heading towards
the summit. The final couloir is steep and the rock section
becomes extremely difficult to protect. Expect holds to
literally be ripped out as you attempt the final rock section.
Suerte.
Additonal
Routes: Italian, Arista Del Calvario, Varient Arista
Del Calvario
Suggested
Reading: Climbing
and Hiking in Ecuador, 4th edition
Getting
There: The best way to climb Obisbo is to get a
bus to Riobamba or Banos and from there catch a bus to Cubijes
or Quimiag. From Cubijes you can hire transport, aka a taxi,
to take you to the Hacienda Vaqueria Ingisay or to the end
of the road where you will find a water diversion project.
We would recommend camping right by the water project for
a night while you search for mule/horse transport for the
following day. Expect to pay about US $6 per person for
the mules. The mules can get you within 20 minutes of the
Italian camp. Some mulateers will try to stop earlier --
be vigilant. From the water diversion project to the Italian
camp should take about 5-6 hours depending on conditions.
Parts of the trail can be extremely muddy or boggy so consider
rubber boots, although plastics would suffice. The Italian
camp has obvious tent sites. Remember any climb from here
is a minimum of 12 hours, but you should expect more.
Back
to the Ecuador Climbing pages...
Created by SAE member Tim Tadder, www.cotopaxi.com
Changes or updates? Please email ttadder@fcaq.k12.ec
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