Direct Route: Once you reach the flat area above the refugio you will be staring at the rather steep north face of Iliniza Sur. This route can be extremely difficult depending on recent snowfall. Parts of this climb approach 70 - 80 degrees. Exit the ramp to the left and cross a crevassed area. Above the rockband climb right to a ridge and then head left to the Ambato Peak. Then head for the summit. This climb can range from 6-8 hours depending on conditions.

Climbing Iliniza Sur via the Normal Route: From the refugio follow the cairns up to the left until you reach the base of the north face. Traverse the glacier heading west (right) to the snow ramp below the rockband (if it exist, otherwise ascend the rocks much lower). From here the route more or less corkscrews to the right, traversing the mountain. Eventually you will need to head left up the steep (45-50 degree) slope to the summit. Plan on 3-5 hours from the refugio to the summit.

Getting There: Take any bus heading south on the Pan American Highway. About 40km south of Quito and just south of the town of Machachi you will see a green sign on the right hand side of the highway for the "Ilinizas." Have the driver let you off here. Head down the cobbled road and try to catch a ride on the local bus heading to El Chaupi or hitch-hike. In the town of El Chaupi turn right at the plaza and follow the cobbled road for about 2-3km until you see a left hand turn. You should see a dilapidated sign for a hacienda at this left hand turn. Just after big white cross which is on the right. Continue to follow this road. You will come upon a shrine for the Virgin Mary -- most hired camionetas will drop you off here. You can count on about a 2-3 hour hike from the Virgin to the refugio (Nuevos Horizontes') at 4,700 meters. The refugio has room for about 15-20 people and has cooking facilities.

Additional Routes: Northeast Ridge, Celso Zuquillo, South Ridge, Southwest face.

Suggested Reading: Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador, 4th edition.

Back to the Ecuador Climbing Pages...

Created by SAE member Tim Tadder, www.cotopaxi.com
Changes or updates? Please email ttadder@fcaq.k12.ec