Information Sheet Last Updated: 2005

Cotopaxi

Population: 303,489. This province, which bears the name of the famous volcano at the heart of Ecuador's oldest national park, also boasts the attractive colonial town of Latacunga, as well as some of the best, most rugged scenery in Ecuador around the crater lake of Quilotoa. It offers a myriad of excellent trekking and climbing opportunities easily accessed from Quito.

Air access: Latacunga airport
Bus access (from Quito) : half-hourly service to Latacunga from the Terminal Terrestre
Train access: Quito - Cotopaxi National Park (Saturdays & Sundays, 8am from Quito): $4.65

Information given for

Latacunga
Chugchilán
El Chaupi
Saqusilí
Zumbahua
Cotopaxi National Park
The Illinizas
Laguna Quilotoa
Transport

LATACUNGA
Population: 53,441. Latacunga doesn't look like much from the Pan-American highway, but it has an attractive colonial center. Some interesting and mysterious celebrations, the Fiesta de la Virgen de las Mercedes and the Fiesta de la Mama Negra, take place here in September and November, respectively.

Hotels

Hotel Cotopaxi
Tel: 8 01-310
Salcedo 42-32 on Parque Vicente León
$6 per person with private bath
Friendly, overlooks plaza.

Hotel Rodelú
Tel: 800-956, fax 812-341
Quito 1631 y Padres Salcedo
$14 (+12% tax) single with bath
Transport to Cotopaxi available but bargain hard!

Between Latacunga and Lasso:

Hacienda San Augustin de Callo
Telefax 719-160, owner Mignon Plaza
$210 (+22%tax) double w/ breakfast, dinner
$240 (+22%tax) suite w/ breakfast, dinner
$20 per lunch
7 km from Cotopaxi park entrance. Bikes, horses for hire.
Contact info. in Quito:
Telefax 221-224
Moscú 506 y Checoeslovaquia
Edif. Baniera, Ofic. 1

Hosteria La Cienega
For reservations ring Quito: 541-337, fax 228-820
or hosteria in Lasso Tel: (03)719-052/093, fax 719182
$30 single (tax included)
$40 double
$45 triple
$50 quadruple
$70 suite
Beautiful courtyard, gardens, good restaurant
Prices are valid until July

CHUGCHILAN
A small village in one of the most scenic areas of Ecuador's highlands. Great hiking possibilities abound (see Climbing & Hiking in Ecuador). Buses leave from near the river in Latacunga between 10 and 11 am daily (4 hours).

Hotels

Black Sheep Inn
Tel: 814-587
Apartado 05-01-240
Latacunga
E-mail: blksheep@interactive.net.ec
Web: www.blacksheepinn.com
Prices per person, incl. breakfast & dinner:
$15 shared bunk room
$18 double
$17 triple
$16 quadruple
$30 single
Tasty vegetarian food. Great base for hiking and biking. Good information.

Hostal Casa Mama Hilda
In the village on the road to Sigchos.
10 beds, shared bath, all meals available. Friendly, reasonable. Will arrange excursions.

EL CHAUPI
While technically in Pichincha province, this town, west of the Pan-American before Latacunga, is the main entrance to the Illinizas (see below) and thus is best listed in Cotopaxi. It works as an alternative access point for the peak AEl Corazón as well. There is some good walking in the surrounding hills. Regular buses, which can be flagged down on the highway, serve the town from Machachi.

Hotels

Hacienda San Jose de El Chaupi
Tel: (in Quito) 891-547, (09) 713-986
Contact: Rodrigo Peralbo
Set at 11,152 feet. A good base for the Illinizas, Cotopaxi, Ruminahui, Pasachoa.
Double and triple rooms, hot water, kitchen, open fire. Horses and transport for Cotopaxi and Illinizas

SALCEDO
There are interesting markets here on Thursday and Sunday as well as a Mama Negra festival on Nov. 1.

Hotels

Hosteria Rumipamba de las Rosas
Tel: 726-128, 726-306; fax 727-103
Panamericana Highway, sur km 100
$34(+22% tax) single with bath
$46(+22% tax) doublewith bath

ZUMBAHUA
Great local Saturday market and the nearest town to Laguna Quilotoa (see below). Hourly buses from Latacunga (Coop. Siro, Coop. Cotopaxi, or Coop. Vivero)

Hotels

Hostal Cóndor Matzi
(03) 814-610 for reservations (hospital)
On the main plaza.
$3 per person w/ shared bath, hot shower-

Residencial Oro Verde
Just before the square on the left. Friendly but basic.

Excursions

COTOPAXI NATIONAL PARK
Part forest, part páramo, and all beautiful, this is Ecuador's oldest national park with the magnificent Volcán Cotopaxi (5,897 meters) at its heart. Ecuador's second-tallest peak and the world's highest active volcano, this nearly perfect cinder cone is also the country's most popular snow climb. See Climbing & Hiking in Ecuador for route descriptions and the SAE Climbing & Hiking Binder for more information and recommended guides.

Access and accommodation:
Entrance fee $10 high season (July-September), $7 low season. There are park entrances at El Boliche (just south of Machachi) and Lasso, though vehicle traffic is allowed only on the latter. There are several established camgrounds, some of them with simple shelters, dotting this road, and the climbers' refuge is a 45-minute uphill walk beyond the car park at the end of it.

THE ILLINIZAS
Two of Ecuador's more popular snow climbs, the non-technical Iliniza Norte and the highly technical Iliniza Sur occupy a corner of the extensive Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas, newly created in 1996. Both are accessed through the small town of El Chaupi off the Pan-American southwest of Machachi. There is a direct bus from Machachi to Chaupi. From there, it is a 6-hour walk to the refuge in the saddle between the two peaks. Alternatively, you can hire a truck for about $10 to take you to the Virgin (about half-way up). The refuge, which is owned by the Quito-based climbing club Nuevos Horizontes, is now fully equipped with bunks, a warden, and cooking facilities.

Ecogological note:
If driving (or riding) up toward the refuge, please park your vehicle in the flat area marked by a statue of the Virgin and continue on foot. Severe erosion caused by vehicle traffic beyond this point has threatened the fragile páramo and polylepis forest. A U.S. Peace Corps volunteer currently living in El Chaupi is launching a project to restrict vehicle access and establish a single walking trail to the refuge. The $5 entrance fee may soon be enforced.

Practical note:
Beware of over-charging, both for accomodation and transport, by the refuge administator Wladimir Gallo. Numerous travelers have complained of these problems.

LAGUNA QUILOTOA
This beautiful volcanic crater lake is 14 km from Zumbahua. It's a 3-4 hour walk, or ask around for transport. Slow buses (Coop. Vivero) also leave Latacunga daily between 10 and 11 am (4-5 hours). Numerous lovely walks can be done in the area (see Climbing & Hiking in Ecuador for suggestions). Just below the crater, several families can provide sleeping space and prepare basic food.

Cabañas Quilotoa (Humberto Latacunga)
Crackling fire, warm beds, hot showers.

Hostal Quilotoa (José Guamangate)

Refugio Quilotoa (Jorge Latacunga)