Information Sheet Last Updated: 2005
Pichincha
Population: 2,466,245. Ecuador’s second most populated province and home to the outstanding colonial capital of Quito, Pichincha offers not only world-class architecture and the active volcano from which it takes its name, but also a monument to the equator crossing, Incan and pre-Incan ruins, South America′s largest volcanic crater (extinct), a variety of highland scenery, and lush cloud forest to the west.
Air access: Mariscal Sucre international airport in Quito. (Regular national and international flights)
Bus access: Quito=s Terminal Terrestre (Old Town) is the hub for almost all inter-city bus traffic
Train access: 1) Quito - Riobamba, Saturdays 8 am (returns to Quito Fridays), $16 one way
2) Quito - Cotopaxi National Park, Saturdays & Sundays, 8am, $4.65 round trip.
The train station is in the Old Town (La Mexico) near the trole stop “Villaflora”. It's tricky to find, so take a map or taxi.
Information for:
QUITO
CALDERON
CAYAMBE
GUAYLLABAMBA
MACHACHI / ALOASI
PUERTO QUITO
PUERTO VICENTE MALDONADO
SAN MIGUEL DE LOS BANCOS
SANGOLQUI
SANTO DOMINGO
EXCURSIONS:
Archeological sites
Bosque Protector Pasochoa
Cloud forest:Laguna de San Marcos
Mitad del Mundo
Pululahua Crater
Nevado Cayambe
QUITO
Population 1,615,809. The national capital and political, financial, and administrative center of the country, Quito is also Ecuador’s second-largest city. Situated a mere 25 km south of the equatorial line at an altitude of 2,900 meters,it is also the world's second-highest capital after La Paz, Bolivia. Stretched long and thin in a north-south direction between the slopes of Pichincha volcano to the west and a low ridge to the east, the extensive metropolitan area has grown tremendously in recent decades, drawing on populations from all of the provinces. Nevertheless, it preserves a small 16th and 17th-century core which is considered a World Cultural Heritage site by the United Nations and contains some of the finest colonial architecture on the continent, including La Compañia, which some consider Latin America's loveliest church. North of this Old Town is the downtown of the ANew Town, centered along Avenida Amazonas in the Mariscal Sucre district, which increasingly is becoming the city's commercial and tourist center. Suburbs sprawl far to the north and south, while the eastern valleys of Tumbaco and Los Chillos have become bedroom communities for the capital.
CALDERON
This town just north of Quito is famous for its painted dough figurines. They make great Christmas decorations. Try visiting Cecilia Trujillo, one block past the plaza.
CAYAMBE
Dominated by views of the snow-covered peak with the same name, this pleasant town specializes in making cheese (queso de hoja) and biscochos (salt biscuits).
Hotels
Hacienda Guachalá
(02) 2363-042, Fax: 362-426
$39 single
$48 double
Prices include tax. A restored hacienda built in 1580, south of Cayambe on the
road to Cangahua. Great hiking and biking, horse riding, swimming pool.
Ask the bus driver to drop you off at the Cangahua turnoff. From there it's about a 20-30 min walk along the dirt road. Discounts to SAE membersHostal Cayambe (Youth Hostel)
(02) 2361-007
Bolívar 23 y Ascázubi
Clean, friendly, stores luggage
Restaurants
Moulin Rouge
5 km north of town on the Pan-American
French restaurant in a windmill. Real espresso drinks served. Cyclists camp for free.
Buses Quito-Cayambe
Flor del Valle
Tel: (02) 2 360-094
Asunción y Larrea (just off Parque El Ejido)
Buses every 30 minutes from 5:30 am - 8 pm
GUAYLLABAMBA
Set in a fertile valley just north of Calderón, this town is known for its avocados, chirimoyas ( fruit), and limas; also, for it׳s typical food (try yaguarlocro, it׳s a delicious soup). Quito’s former metropolitan zoo is also there.
MACHACHI / ALOASI
The first major town on the Pan-American south of Quito, Machachi has cockfights on Sundays, an annual rodeo in July, and nearby springs that are the source of Güitig mineral water. The village of Aloasí is practically a suburb on the way to the volcano El Corazón. Accomodation options in Machachi are not particularly inspiring.
Hotels
Hostal La Vaca
in MachachiHotel Miravalle
in MachachiHotel Mejia
in Machachi
Basic, dirty and noisyLa Estación de Machachi
Across from the train station in Aloasí.
Restaurants
Restaurant Pedregal
Has distinctive log cabin motif. Found just off the park on the road the bus comes in on
Cheap, good, basic food
Cabins
Aldea Salamandra
Calama E6-05 btwn. R. Victoria y J. L. Mera
7 cabins sleeping from 2-10 people, includes all food and tours.
Eco-cabañas set in sub-tropical forest on the banks of the river Canoi. Activities include biking, hiking, kayaking, horseback riding, rafting, and trips into the forest to visit waterfalls. Spanish lessons available.
SANGOLQUI
This small town just outside Quito is famous as the birthplace of the painter Endara Crow.
Hotels
Hostería Summergarten
Tel: (02) 2330-315, fax 2554503
Chimborazo 248 y Rio Frio
$30 +(22%) single
$44 +(22%) double
Prices include breakfast and tax.. Hot waterHostería La Carriona
SANTO DOMINGO DE LOS COLORADOS
Most of the buses from Quito to the coast take the terribly winding route through this major traffic-hub and rapidly growing city, which takes its name from the Tsáchila Indians (Indios Colorados). The city feels like a bit of a rough place.
Hotels outside of town
Tinalandia
Tel: (09)467-741, (09)494-727
in Quito: 449-028 (telefax)
Urb. El Bosque, Calle Tercera 4378, Quito
$65 (+22%) single
$85 (+22%) double
$95 (22%) triple
$6 / 12 / 12 (+22%) for breakfast / lunch / dinner
Hostería 20 km before Santo Domingo
Discounts for groups.The hotel caters primarily to bird watchers. There is a system of trails into the forest or trips can be arranged into the local area, i.e. the old Chiriboga road. There is a golf course.
Near Valle Hermoso
Hostería Valle Hermoso
Tel: 2759-095, 2773-208
Merci Gallardo de Abad, owner
Office across from Colegio CTC in Santo Domingo
Hosteria at km 25 on the road to Esmeraldas
$10 per person
120 hectares, on Río Blanco, has lakes and waterfalls.La Cascada
on the other side of town from Hostería Valle Hermoso
Natural waterfall and pool in front of hotel.Bosque Protector La Perla
Casilla 17-24-128
Santo Domingo
Camping possible. 250-hectare farm / rainforest 14 km past Valle Hermosa. Very rustic, friendly owner.
Rumicucho
Spectacularly located but poorly restored, the extensive Inca ruins of Rumicucho, 3 kim northwest of San Antonio de Pichincha near Calacalí, require a full day to visit completely. You can ask at the Middle of the World city.
Tolas de Cochasquí
These interesting pre-Incan mud pyramids, now covered by grass, were built on a height, presumably for both strategic and religious reasons. Each pyramid is oriented toward a different volcanic peak: Cotopaxi, Pichincha, Antisana, Cayambe, Imbabura and Cotocachi are all visible on a clear day. Open 9 am - 3pm. Allow an hour and a half for the free guided tour. To get there take Transportes Lagos buses, which runs from Quito and Otavalo. From the sign -post on the Pan-American highway, it′s an 8km walk.
BOSQUE PROTECTOR PASOCHOA
Located in a steep gorge heading up Pasochoa mountain, this lovely area escaped cultivation to become one of the few patches of highland forest remaining in an original state. It is rich in bird-life and has been developed for walking with two, four and eight-hour marked trails. The peak can also be climbed in about 5-6. There is an information cabin.
Getting there
The easiest way from Quito is to take a bus to Amaguaña, then continue by truck up to the park entrance. (See Climbing & Hiking in Ecuador for precise driving or walking directions.)
To catch the Amaguaña bus, go by city bus to La Marín in the Old Town. La Marín (south of Plaza La Marín where the trolley stop is) is kind of an elongated open-air bus station. There is a first cement island with a roof where buses arrive from the north, turn around, and return north. This is where you will get off. Walk south to a second island where buses come from the south and go south again. Here you should find a bus marked Amaguaña. If not, keep walking south until you spot one.
The road into Amaguaña leaves the Pan-American to the right just before a white, steepled church on the left side of the highway. Most buses will take you right into town, where you can get a truck at or around the main square, but some continue on by. If this is the case, you could get off at the intersection and walk into town. There is also a second road to Pasochoa opposite the church. It's 7km (about half an hour) on a bumpy, cobbled road up to the park. As of this update, a truck should cost about $7 Be prepared to bargain over the price as over-charging is common. The park administrators leave about 6pm and might give you a ride down. Or make an arrangement with your original driver (not always honored!).
MAQUIPICUNA
A cloud forest reserve near Nanegal, this is set up as a research station but also functions as a hotel.
Contact Rodrigo Ontaneda or Ing. Roberto León
Tel: 507-200 / 202 Fax: 507-201
Casilla 167-12
Baquerizo E-9-153 between Tamayo y Plaza, Quito
MINDO
Virgin and secondary cloud forest surround this small town on the other side of Pichincha volcano from Quito. The area, which supports a remarkably varied bird life, was recently designated one of world's megadiversity zones. The town itself is pleasant and tranquil, and the area is great for outdoor activities C birding, inner-tubing, swimming, hiking, etc. Mindo is small enough that you can just go and see what accomodation looks good.
To get there
By bus
1) Transportes > Flor del Valle
Tel: 527-495
Terminal at Manuel Larrea y Asunción (just off Parque El Ejido)
Direct buses taking about 3hrs
Quito to Mindo buses leave Mon-Thurs 3:30 pm, Fri Fri-Sun 8am & 3:30 pm
Mindo to Quito buses leave Mon-Thurs 6.30am, Fri-Sun 6.30am and 2.00pm
2) You can also catch a bus to Puerto Quito at the Terminal Terrestre and ask them to drop you at the AY de Mindo (intersection with the road into town). From here to town it's an 8 km downhill walk, though you can often hitch a ride.By car
Approximately 2 hours. Take the road to Mitad del Mundo, then on past Calacalí and Nanegalito. Look for small sign on the left to Mindo.
Hotels in Town
Guadual Inn
ask in Mindo
Basic, clean, friendly with restaurant.Hostal Gypsy
opposite the pool and soccer field
Ecuadorian / English-owned, popular among backpackers.Hostería El Carmelo de Mindo
Tel: 2 546013
$40 single w/o bath
$66 double w/o bath
$48 singlewith private bath
$86 double with private bath
All prices include 3 meals.
Just outside of Mindo. Horseback riding. Very small pool.
Accomodation in the forest
Bosque Protector Mindo
Amigos de La Naturaleza is the only organization with a license to take visitors into the protected forest. There are two refuges near the edge of the reserve. To get to the Amigos office in Mindo walk down the main road until you get to the plaza, take a left and walk a couple of blocks beyond the plaza.Reservations can be made in Quito:
Tel: 455-344, speak to Maria Guerrero
Casilla 17-03-1673
$25 per day with 3 meals, overnight and guide
$17 per day without meals
$10 per day for guiding service
You need a sleeping bag, flashlight, towel, repellent. There are also volunteer opportunities.El Monte Sustainable Lodge
Book through Cultura Reservation Center in Quito
Tel: 558-889
Robles y Reina Victoria
Private riverside cabins set in secondary cloud forest, a 40-min walk outside Mindo.
Bird guides
There are more than 400 species of birds in Mindo and a specialist guide can show you many of them.
Efraín Toapanta
Tel: 765-471
E-mail: mindo_mundo@hotmail.com
Speaks English and German. Administrates the Orchid Garden and Cabañas Armonía.Vinicio Perez
Highly recommended. A local man who knows all his birds in English. Just ask for him when you get to Mindo, or get in contact through Vinicio's sister in Quito: Tel: 612-955
Vinicio's message phone: 770-114
Secoya 140 y Bazapamba
Other
Mindo Spanish School
Tel: 542-107
Juan Rodriguez 228 and Reina Victoria, Quito
E-mail: mesiaz@mixmail.com
Web-site: www.cenfeil.org/mindo.htm
$4 per hour
$3.50 per hour for more than one week
$200/week in Mindo with accommodation, food, Spanish lessons, and excursions
CLOUD FOREST: NANEGALITO / NONO AREA
Reserva Bella Vista
2 hrs from Quito just past Tandayapa
Quito office: 232-313, 224-469
J. Washington E7-23 btw. 6 de Dic. y R. Victoria
Richard & Gloria Parsons, owners
Prices range from:
$14-32 (+22%), accommodation only
$32-52 (+22%) with 3 meals
An unusual domed lodge set in beautiful cloudforest. Transport available in 4-wheel drive. Good dining room and bar. For more information see leaflet.Hostería San Jorge
Make reservations through Jorge Cruz
565-964 (telefax)
Carvajal 2861 y Las Casas, Quito
E-mail: info@hostsanjorge.som.ec
Web-site: www.hostsanjorge.som.ec
Hosteria on old road to Nono out from Cotocallao.
$30 single
$35 double
$12 per person in shared cabin
$50 trekking, all-included
There are 600 hectares with trails and waterfalls. Mountain biking and horse-back riding available.
LAGUNA DE SAN MARCOS
North of Cayambe mountain on a road out of Olmedo, this high lake about 5 hours from Quito is nice for camping and popular among trout fisherman. The surrounding area offers some little-explored hiking possibilities in wet, paramo and cloud forest ( See Climbing & Hiking in Ecuador).
MITAD DEL MUNDO
This famous monument and museum complex, about 20 km north of Quito near the town of San Antonio de Pichincha, marks the spot where the Frenchmen Charles-Marie de la Condamine determined the equatorial line to be in 1736. The obelisk-like monument, quite obvious from the roadside, houses a worthwhile ethnographic museum. There is also a planetarium (hourly shows), an excellent miniature model of colonial Quito, and various overpriced on-site restaurants (more reasonable prices in town). Entry to the complex itself is free. To get there, catch a north-bound bus marked AMitad del Mundo@ on Avenida America in Quito. The ride cost about 15 cents takes a bit more than half an hour.
PULULAHUA CRATER
This is reputedly South America's largest crater, a huge, extinct volcanic bowl with a small village built on its floor and a forested cone in the center. The part not belonging to the community corresponds to the Reserva Geobotánica Pululahua. The impressive crater is easily accessed from Mitad del Mundo and offers some nice walking possibilities.
To get there take the bus to Mitad del Mundo or Calacalí. The road to Calacalí heads northwest off the traffic circle that is the entrance to Mitad del Mundo. About 5 km up this road is the intersection with the dirt road leading up to the crater rim. It is well-marked with a sign for the reserve and a second one for the restaurant El Crater (at the overlook). On the corner is the shop-cafe Jerez, which sells sangría and sandwhiches. Hike or hitch along the road up to the viewpoint. To hike down into the crater, take the trail on the left. You will likely not have to pay the $5 entrance fee if you enter and exit by this route. Food & drink at Maria's house (the first one you see) or El Crater (see below). You can hike out to Calacalí, 7-8 hours. Check the trip reports and see Climbing & Hiking in Ecuador.
Restaurant
El Crater
439-254 (telefax), (09)925-867
On crater rim, great views. Open daily, 11am - 6:30pm.
Horseback-riding
Equatorial Horse Trek
443-809, (09)462-798
$50 per day with lunch
SAE discount. One-day trips close to Quito. Great horses, all equipment provided, delicious food, includes transport from Quito.Green Horse Ranch
523-856
1-day trips: $50
Astrid Müller will arrange overnight trips for any number of days to any requested area. Price includes food, park entrance fees, accomodations, transport to/from Quito, and riding boots. SAE member discount: 10%
This extinct, glaciated volcano is Ecuador's third-highest peak at 5,790m. Heavy crevassing and frequent avalanche hazard make it dangerous to climb despite a low technical difficulty (see Climbing & Hiking in Ecuador for details and routes). October to January is said to be the best period for climbing. Watch for snowstorms and high winds. Though this is technically part of the Reserva Ecológica Cayambe-Coca, at present no entrance fee is charged at the unstaffed guard station.
The refuge, known as the Ruales hut after an Ecuadorian climber killed by an avalanche, was refurbished in 1994. It has climbing equipment, bunks and basic food.
You can hire a truck in the town of Cayambe which will drop you off about one hour's walk from the refuge. If you go up in a private vehicle, ask for the road to Hacienda Piedmonte. At the hacienda take the left hand fork. In a good 4x4 you should have no trouble in reaching the refuge.