South American Explorer

There is more to Argentine food than just juicy steaks and potent malbec wine, says SAE reporter Tracey Chandler.

 

 

Beef and wine are two things that immediately spring to mind when thinking about Argentine food, as well as a staple diet of breads and pastries due to the country’s long history of wheat exportation. However, on closer inspection, Argentina produces a veritable array of delicious local dishes… you just have to know where to look.

 

Olives

Mendoza and San Juan, two provinces that are famed for their wine production, don’t just offer wine. Both provinces, along with another in the west, La Rioja, produce a huge range of olives, available in different varieties, tastes and sizes.

 

Mate

On a daily basis, the regular Argentine consumes far more servings of mate (a hot drink made from a dried plant mass called yerba) than glasses of wine. There are several main Yerba products made in Argentina, and most hail from the province of Misiones where it is grown in the form of a bush, before being dried.

 

Locro and Guiso

The higher altitudes of Salta and Jujuy, known as the altiplano region, offer the visitor hot and flavoursome dishes, generally cooked in a large pot for many hours. Locro and Guiso are two such dishes made from meat, beans, lentils and vegetables, and are clearly a consequence of the cooler climate found in these northern regions. A hot serving of either is enough to make you realise that meat, though important to Argentine cooking, is not always the main event of a meal.

 

Mandioca and Chipa

While it’s true that wheat is used to make all those tasty empanadas served in restaurants or cafes in Buenos Aires, in the northern provinces mandioca is far more popular. Indeed, dishes such as locro and guiso are best enjoyed by mopping up the last tasty drops with a serving of this bread replacement, particularly during the cold winter months. Mandioca, a root vegetable similar to the yukka, is also used to make chipa, which is a road-side snack made from a mixture of the root vegetables, cheese and milk. It is very common in the northern province of Misiones, close to the Paraguayan border and a regular favorite as food on-the-go. The use of choclo (corn) and mandioca in the northern provinces is a direct result of the proximity to neighboring Bolivia and Paraguay, and an example of how food in Argentina changes from region to region.

 

Pejerrey

There are parts of the country where fish is extremely popular. The proverbial Merluza (Hake) which is served in a number of restaurants in the capital is perhaps not very enticing, however, a variety of fish can be found in other parts of the country. The north east is home to the pejerrey (a type of river fish endemic to the region), which is usually served grilled and eaten with vegetables. When traveling west into Patagonia, a local delicacy is trout. As a result of Welsh influence in this area, jam, marmalade, casseroles and lamb (meat hardly ever used in the rest of the country) are very popular in Patagonia.

 

 

Sweet Pastries

The first and most important meal of the day in Argentina has a lot in common with both France and Italy, namely facturas (sweet pastries) or toast served with butter and jam washed down with a milky café con leche.

 

Dulces and ice cream

After breakfast, sugary treats like ice-cream, homemade chocolate and pastries are consumed at all hours and in all temperatures. The portions are huge and proudly appear in shop windows like works of art. Ice-cream shops are regularly open until 3am in the country’s capital, offering home delivery services. You’ll find the ice cream creamier and more flavorsome that in many other countries. Wall-to-wall chocolate shops are a local favourite in the Lakes District, especially Bariloche. It’s a local custom to bring home a selection of chocolates, when you visit the city.

 

Alfajores

However, the most important sweet treat in the country has to be the alfajor. The main brands of alfajores, including Havanna, La Cabaña and Cabsha (a cheaper brand found in all kioskos in Buenos Aires), are in constant competition and everyone has their personal favourite. Assortments ranging from dark chocolate, milk chocolate, white chocolate, nuts of many varieties, coconut and, of course, the all important dulce de leche (crudely likened to soft and gooey caramel) are widely available.  .

 

In a nutshell, meat, wheat and wine will forever be a part of the Argentine platter, but there is much more of a variety within South America’s southern point than at first may well appear. Take advantage of the variety of food on offer when moving between each provinces and cities, and don’t forget to try the locally brewed beers too!  

 

Tracey Chandler battles every day with the knowledge that it’s probably impossible to visit every place in the world. Having visited every continent at least once, she finally took the decision to leave the fast-paced London life behind her and spent eight months living and teaching English in Merida, Venezuela. In April 2009, she began another new life as Buenos Aires’ SAE Clubhouse Writer and is now a regular contributor to the SAE Magazine.