Chile: Coastal Paradise of La Serena
Writer David L. Rogers revisits his favorite family holiday spot and falls in love with it all over again.
If variety is the spice of life, then Chile is one of the planet’s spiciest countries. Sometimes called ‘the shoe-string country’, Chile’s tremendous length makes it seem like a string or even a string bean in appearance on the map. From north to south the climates change drastically just as does the terrain, the scenery and the lifestyles.
One city that offers such variety is La Serena.
Only a comfortable six hours north from Chile’s capital, Santiago, on a smooth Pan American Highway and you’ll be at La Serena. Soon after arriving you’ll hit upon an intriguing city that keeps visitors coming back.
What entices them to return? Is it the three cultures found in one city (Peruvian, Bolivian and, of course, Chilean)? Is it the pristine beaches, adorned by an iconic lighthouse? Is it the fact that La Serena is the doorway to world renowned observatories?
Perhaps the attraction is the history tied into the region, where one of Chile’s two Pulitzer Prize winners in literature was born and lived? For others it’s the most incredible vineyards located in an oasis-like valley. To decide, you’ll have to get a taste of how La Serena unites diversity in a classical style with a modern flare.
La Serena is Spanish colonial city located 295 miles north of Santiago.
On our third trip, as with our first, we found the time spent at this sea-side playground provided one discovery after another. In just a week’s stay we enjoyed time on placid and warm beaches, delicious seafood at reasonable prices, and several tours of fabulous colonial structures in town.
One of the highlights while in La Serena was a memorable trip to the Andes, where we drank in the galaxies using the telescope equivalent to one 12 foot in length. The unique thing these observatories enjoy is the lack of any disturbance in the atmosphere which makes for a view that is out of this world. But that is a different story!
La Serena, the capital of the fourth region of Chile, was founded by Juan Bohon on the shores of the Pacific Ocean in 1544. The colonial flavor is unmistakable, but today La Serena has caught up with the times and has become one of Chile’s hottest vacation spots for families. The city adorns the side of dramatic sloping hills that descend gracefully toward the Pacific, giving the city a terrace-like appearance, while enabling a perfect view of the ocean from just about anywhere.
We have visited La Serena three times as a family.
So what keeps drawing us back? More than any other location north of the capital, it’s the beaches that bring us back. In a country with 4345 kilometers of shoreline, that’s saying something. Here the water temperature can be cool (averaging in the upper 60s and low 70s), but that’s comfortable when compared to the majority of beaches on the south-western side of South America. Along this latitude of the coast the frigid Humboldt Current veers toward open seas, leaving the many beaches of Herradura, La Serena, and Coquimbo with a consistently, moderate temperature.
Our all-time favorite past-time is a stroll on the pristine beaches, where the refreshing water invites you to linger there.
As far out as 50 yards from the shore we saunter lazily along, walking on the shallow, sandy ocean bottom. With no undertow or crashing surf, La Serena’s beaches entice us to just stay a while longer…and once we’ve played away the afternoon in sand so smooth, so clean, so white that it’s almost magical, we still remain on the beach, marveling at the intense orange sun as it sinks slowly into the Pacific.
The beach isn’t the only attraction in La Serena, however. A brief 15-minute drive from our rented cabin takes us to the center of town and to the fascinating cross-roads of three cultures. An unmistakably worthwhile stop is the Mercado Central with its unique hand-made souvenirs. The shops hail souvenirs produced locally and internationally by notably creative artisans and craftsmen.
Here in a romantic Spanish colonial-style two-storey building, we browse through souvenirs made by three nationalities of artisans. There are hand-made tapestries, ponchos, sweaters, hats, and wool socks (warm enough to keep your feet toasty even in the Antarctic).
Since all three countries (Chile, Bolivia, and Peru) share a high-plains Indigenous culture dating back to before Christopher Columbus, some cultural themes are repeated among the three countries.
Every year we bring home a plate or vase copied meticulously in the pre-Columbian style.
The woven alpaca and llama hair wall hangings can’t be beat for their plush beauty. One of my favorite items is the polished brass and copper plates – ornamented with outstanding intricacy. The wooden and leather knick-knacks provide light-weight but surprisingly durable home furnishings. Our first folding hardwood stool decorated with leather and etched with Inca themes still works perfectly and is now over twenty years old.
There’s no doubt about it, the Mercado Central provides a fun retreat when the sun seems to be a bit too hot. And while you’re shopping, be sure to taste some of the locally grown, dried papaya candies, canned papaya and chocolates with dried fruit.
Now you’re probably asking yourself: ‘Where can I stay in La Serena?’
This is one town that brings together the best of the old and the new in hotels. For the sake of convenience, we chose to stay in a furnished cabin across the street from the beaches. This option avoids having to transport beach gear in the car since we can just walk across a foot bridge and hit the beaches. But if you’d rather not cook or clean, then check out the gorgeous new hotels on the beach front.
If you like the old Spanish flavor, go with the classical style hotels where you’ll be able to relax in the best of style. Whether colonial or contemporary, many hotels will arrange tours for you, such as a trip to the observatory (Mamalluca Observatory is a highly recommended choice), a trip to the home of Gabriel Mistral (in Vicuña, about 1 hour east of La Serena), and, of course, a tour of the many vineyards nearby. Chilean flavor of pampering will win you over.
Chileans love foreigners and they work hard to make you feel at home.
From the vantage point of our cabin over-looking the Coquimbo Bay, the panorama woos us with its hues of blue, sparkling waves, incredibly white sand, and the deep blue sky. The view is reminiscent of one of the many paintings, similar to those we see often at the central market.
In La Serena we enjoy the warm aquatic playground, with everything from windsurfers to shipping vessels to sleek yachts. On the beach, we kick back in calm and temperate waters, while in the town, where the restaurants and the night activities abound, we never seem to run out of options for what to do. Taking a trip to La Serena gives a whole new meaning to the idea of variety.
HOTEL ACCOMODATIONS
HOTEL COSTA REAL, Ave. Francisco de Aguirre 760 http://www.costareal.cl/
Considered the luxury hotel in La Serena, prices average US$120 for a double occupancy in off season. Includes a light breakfast.
HOTEL LA SERENA CLUB RESORT, Av. Del Mar 1000,
A beach-front hotel, with all the amenities you will need. Average price in off season (July-Aug)–US$130 for a double occupancy in off season. Just 6 miles from the airport.
HOTEL FRANCISCO DE AGUIRRE, Cordovés 210,
http://www.chile-hotels.com/faguirre.htm
An old-style hotel with plenty of character. Average price in peak season (Jan-March)–US$340 for a double occupancy.
HOTEL AND CABINS MAR DEL ENSUEÑO, Av. del Mar 900, http://www.gochile.cl/Hotel_s/HotelPlus.asp?HOID=59
Also a beach-front hotel, this one includes cabins for a family atmosphere. With an emphasis on fun and entertainment, this hotel is more economical. Prices range from US$51 per day for single occupancy to US$122 for a double.
HOTEL SERENA PLAZA. Av. Francisco de Aguirre 0660
Easily accessible hotel, on the road from the beach to town.
David Rogers lives in Chile since 1984 with his wife and four kids. Chile is home to them, since three of the four were born there. As a family they have explored Chile’s beauty and variety from Arica to Puerto Williams. If you are dying to know more about this long country, he can be reached at david.lynn.rogers@gmail.com
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