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Peru Bulletin Board - 2

 

Peru Bulletin Board 1 - postings from April 2000 onwards
Peru Bulletin Board 2 - all postings prior to April 2000

You can now reply to a posting by using the Post/Reply link. Each posting has a unique number at the top left, this is the number you should put in the field Replying to Number. It's still manual, but it works! Thanks.

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PE259 Santa Cruz Trek
We are not members of the South American Explorers club at this time. However we just spent 2 weeks in Peru and wanted to offer a posting. We did the Santa Cruz trek in the Cordillera Blanca over a four day period and hired an arriero as my husband had had the flu for almost ten days prior and was not feeling up to carrying a pack, especially at that altitude. We began in Cashapampa and hired Pedro Belesques Milla. He runs the Hospedage Alpamayo just before the trailhead. He was excellent and we would like to recommend him to anyone looking for an arriero in this area. We do not speak Spanish and he did not speak English but we were able to communicate well enough to agree upon a price (which was lower that the standard arriero rate we were told about at the Casa de Guias in Huaraz). He let us set the pace which was very important for my husband was tired and moving much more slowly that normal and he left us on the trail (we have heard many stories of arrieros getting very far ahead of trekkers and it taking some time to catch up to them). He chose good campsites each night and in general was great to be with. He was very professional and we knew as soon as he started packing the horse we were assured that he knew exactly what he was doing. We only wish we could have communicated with him more. We realize that because we are not members, but we wanted to pass this information on.
Tom Bryant
tbryant@citynet.net
3/20/00
PE258 Hostel de las Artes
Has anyone stayed at the Hostel de las Artes in Peru? Any reviews/opinions gratefully accepted. Thanks!
Jonni Lu Pool
datpool@swbell.net
3/20/00
PE256 TRAVEL COMPANION
Hi, I'm a 23 year old Sydney girl who is travelling to South America between March and September this year. Looking for anyoone who is interested in nature, trekking, rafting, taking it easy, eating and also hoping to improve their Spanish (although if you can already speak it that is an added bonus). Had planned to start in Chile then fly to Ecuador and head down thru Peru to Bolivia and northwest Argentina. I'd like to go a little bit of the beaten track, well as far as you can go while avoiding day long bus trips anyway. And I don't mind hooking up with local tours to go hiking and that sort of thing. But apart from that I would prefer to get around using local transport so I actually get a chance to meet the locals. I've got a few must sees but apart from that I'm pretty flexible. I would love to hear from anyoone with similar interests who is planning on being in South America at the same time.

Also, does anyoone know what is the cheapest way to phone Australia from the above countries? Buy a phonecard over there or use an Australian phone home card? Or some other method I haven't even thought of?

Bye for now, Jenai (jenaidavies@yahoo.com)
3/17/00

PE255 Gay travelers in Lima
Gay travelers to Lima should check the web-site http://gaylimape.tripod.com/ It has lots of essential information for gay travelers to Lima and describes gay hotels, discos, bars, saunas, beaches and meeting places.
syberian@computextos.com
3/17/00
PE247 WANTED ! Looking for Insects dealers!
I am looking for Insects dealers (Beetles). This is FUKINUKI(Mr) a Japanese entomologist. I am Taxa of world Lucanidae. Also, I like all beetles. Please give me contact.
Kiyotami FUKINUKI
Rainforest Laboratory 6-18-22 Kasuga, Fukuyama-city, Hiroshima 721-0907 Japan
Fax: 81-849-41-7692
rainforestjp@mx4.tiki.ne.jp
1/12/00
PE237 Recipe for aji?
I'm looking for a recipe for "aji", which we had in Peru. It's a condiment made of finely chopped onion, chiles, and ???. Thanks, Don.
Don Deane
dondeane@aol.com
11/22/99
PE230 Peru Informations
Just back from an Amazonas expedition, I find three informations for interest: 1st Arequipa: Since about 40 years there is every two years in September, i.e. 1999, 2001 etc., an international miner meeting "Convención de Ingenieros de Minas del Perú" with about 3.000 participants, what is more than the 2.500 available hotel beds. The occupation goes down to the most simple one-star-hostals. Early booking for hotel reservation in that time is very necessary! 2nd Cuzco: A very helpful and competend tour guide for Inca trail, Machu Picchu, rafting, etc. in this region is Fernando Baca Callapiña, POBox 1192, Cuzco, e-mail fernando_callapina@yahoo.com. 3rd Iquitos: There is in the village center a new five-star-hotel "El Dorado" with all facilities. Very good after three jungle weeks ... Direction: Hotel Plaza SA., Napo 258/266 Iquitos, Tel. 5194 222555, Fax. 5194 224304, E-mail: dorplaza@tvs.com.pe.
John Speer
speer@europe.com
10/14/99
PE225 Trujillo
When my brother and I were in Trujillo in May 1997, we went on a tour of several of the archaeological sites nearby. The company which took us was "Turismo Representaciones" located at Jiron Pizarro 478 (off the Plaza de Armas). The staff were very friendly, in particular the owner Irene Forga (the owner) and Giovanna, who sold us the tickets. They brought bottled water for us on the drive out to the site (free), and the guide was very knowledgeable (a graduate student in archaeology). They deserve the highest rating. The phone number of the company is 262402, or 205645 or 234531 Fax number is 249889.
Dr. William Gibson
williamg@ucalgary.ca
9/24/99
PE213 Notice of Expedition Discoveries in Madre de Dios Area
The Schellhorn Madre de Dios Expedition #2 returned to site (GSP S12 degrees 39.723 minutes, W 071 degrees 27.602 minutes) of pre-Inca ruins discovery made on first expedition in Nov. 1998. Conducted further excavation. Found evidence of at least two more tiers of ruins approximately 300 and 600 feet further along trail we have cut on the east side of the Pini Pini montana. These possibly ceremonial ruins, including stacked stone walls and a large "worked" base stone approximately 10 feet long and cut smoothly to 90 degree angles on three sides, are located above Paratoari Pyramides near both the Rio Pala toa Chico and the Rio Inchepiato. Expedition also discovered a large petroglyphic "cartouche" in high relief (approx. 6 inches) on a large stone at headwaters of third branch (counting northward from southward). Petroglyphs of artifact are in shape of an ellipsis, approx. 9 1/2 feet long and 3 feet wide. GPS reading, beacuse of tree cover, was taken approx. 1.25 miles down river from site. GPS of location is S 12 degrees 40.450 minutes, W 071 degrees 27.097 minutes. These are the first pre-Inca ruins discovered in the department of Madre de Dios and possible all of Peru. Politically correct archaeology says ancient Amazonian peoples never built in stone and never worked stone for habitat or ceremonial construction. This site demonstrates otherwise.

Prof. G. Cope Schellhorn
gschell@mwt.net
9/1/99

PE209 Opportunity to live in peru
Hi, we are two american women living in peru and running a vegetarian cafe. we were down here traveling last year and fell in love with the sacred valley and decided to stay. now we are ready to move on and want to sell the cafe. it is called nuevo mundo cafe, is in the footprints peru guidebook. it is in the center of urubamba, a quiet town in between cusco and machu piccui. if you are looking for a way to live in peru and make a living, check it out.
peace,
katherine and signe
ktdob@yahoo.com
8/18/99
PE200 Beware of Ayacucho Tours
Beware of the shoddy work of Ayacucho Tours. We bought bus tickets to Cuzco, with a change in Buses at Andahuaylas, but the company failed to reserve us tickets for the second leg to Cuzco.

Thanks to the help of the national and local police, we received a refund and arrangements for another bus (via Abancay) to Cuzco. As a result of this problem, our anticipated 21 hour trip to 30 hours.

Again, if it wasn't for the help of the police, we would still be
stuck in Andahuaylas.
John Bies
jbies@ixlmemphis.com
7/26/99
PE174 What to tell your parents about your trip
All of you gringos preparing to travel to Peru will have to try to allay the fears of your loved ones. I tell people that I think the U.S. is as "dangerous" as Peru. You don't get things like Oklahoma City, the Unabomber, international terrorism against your government's policies, or children shooting up their schools in Latin America, for heaven's sake. You have to be street smart, that's all, and be careful who to trust. If you don't know who to ask, stay with reputable tour companies like Lima Tours.

Americans are scared of Peru, just as they are of Cuba, for one reason. I am convinced that there's a prejudice amongst the news media against Peru, if not an outright media agreement w/the U.S. government, to punish Peru for having allied itself with the Soviets in the late sixties, as it were "just saying no" to northern corperations' and Uncle Sam's bullying. Think about it--almost the only good coverage of Peru you see is in National Geographic. It's like an unofficial embargo, a campaign of negative information just like we get about black communities in the U.S. I have had the same problem with my parents (although they are responsible for my wanderlust). I remind them that I've spent a good time in both Costa Rica and Peru, and Peru is not much different than Costa Rica--or anywhere else in poor Latin countries--in terms of petty crime. Or certain parts of cities here at home. Mexico itself has had bad reports in recent years.

A fascinating book on Peru's economy--and other similar economies--is "The Other Path," by Hernan de Soto. It explains much of what you will observe in terms of the informal economy.
Catherine Joslyn
cjoslyn@mail.clarion.edu
5/18/99
PE171 Recommended jungle lodge on Tambopata River
My brother and I just visited Peru and would like to notify you of a new jungle lodge in the Puerto Maldonado area. It's called the WASAI Lodge & Expeditions and is owned and run by Mario Troncuso. This jungle lodge is the farthest up the Tambopata River - 120 km.

We had a good time and they were good hosts - very good cooking!

The address is:

WASAI Lodge & Expditions
Playa Grau #1, Puerto Maldonado - Peru
Tel: 51-84-571355
email: maldonado@wasai.com

It's worth checking out!
Best regards,
Shawn Snowden
5/14/99

PE167A RE: Lima to Ayacucho area
The road from Huancayo to Ayacucho is in a good condition by these season(May-Aug).It's an unpaved road so Bus go slowly, it takes almost11hours(278Km) but landscapes and people offer you a good experience. I have a guesthouse in Huancayo for visitors and Ihave no reports about attacks,assaults on the road, in late years, only Thievery at Bus station like every where in South America. I have a tip for you. Why don't visit Huancavelica when you get this area? It's a rarely visited andean region.
Juana de Sanabria
peruandino@mixmail.com
6/15/99
PE166A RE: Nazca
I wanted to stop in Ica to see the little museum, so stayed overnight there. I think it was about 3 hours to Ica with a major bus company, then another 3 or less to Nazca. Took a cooperativo from Ica to Nazca.

At Nazca, I recommend BOTH going up on the tower (Mirador) to see the lines closer to the ground, AND flying over them. I didn't do the former, and missed the perspective of how BIG they really are, which you'd get from the tower but don't from the air. Also you definitely want to visit the gravesites of the Nazca Necropolis culture.
c.joslyn
cjoslyn@mail.clarion.edu
5/14/99

PE165 Warning: bus travel Cusco to Puno
Don't do it! In any event, never take a night bus, which may be the only choice. Thieves are thick on the road, knowing Peruvians travel with cash to buy appliences in Bolivia. They try to attack the buses. The way back is OK, but fly to Puno.
Catherine Joslyn
cjoslyn@mail.clarion.edu
5/6/99
PE163A RE: Festival Dates?
Carnival (Sp. carnaval) is the weekend/week before Ash Wednesday, so all you have to do is find out when that is. I recommend going to Pisaq. There's a locally owned hotel on a corner that's cheap & good if you speak Spanish (or even if you don't). The Hostal Pisaq is also nice, more expensive, & owned by an American. You can eat there, but you need to tell them your order ahead of time...it's not a regular restaurant. Their # is is the guidebooks but you don't need advance reservations for Pisaq, even that weekend.

Cusco people (I lived there for a year last year) recommended two places for Carnival, and Pisaq was one of them. I've forgotten the other, but it's nearby.

I recommend going to Pisaq on Saturday before Ash Wednesday, to be there for parade and dancing in the square Sat. night. A special version of the usual Sunday market, plus dances by groups from outlying communities, and a special version of the weekly blessing of the mayors' (varayok) staffs (usually in the church, but for the festival in 98 on the outdoor stage). The dances get repetitive after a while, leaving time for a hike up to the ruins (allow 4 hours & take food. Campesinos up there sell bottles of water). The ruins are quite beautiful and normally uncrowded (including that day). Ask directions to hike up. The trail begins close to the center of town and goes up to the right (the left lands you in community fields and they don't want you in there). Take a panoramic camera and a videocam if possible.

Then go back to Pisaq on Ash Wed. for the trek to the ruins by all the people of the area. Hop on a city bus which will be making runs up there. From the drop off it's an easy hike up to the top. More dancing, throwing of water balloons, etc. Take a picnic and food to share w/others perhaps. It's an all day thing, fun to go with friends. No tourists, really just the people. I found people so happy, friendly and cheerful this day. They are not in tourist mode, just delighted to have visitors to share in the fun. It was really nice, even though it was raining and I was alone so didn't stay long. I could have, though, just watching, and eventually someone engages you in conversation etc.

It's easy to get to Pisaq from Cusco. Just go to the Pisaq bus station off Tullumayo (all the taxistas know it, Cusco is so small), and wait half an hour for the next bus. Ask the driver to let you know when to get off. Your seat mate will probably tell you too, if they know where you want to go. It will cost maybe 50 cents and takes less than an hour. The road is beautiful. Don't be paranoid about your stuff, just very watchful and never leave anything anywhere for a second. No gold jewelry, of course.

Enjoy!
Catherine Joslyn
cjoslyn@mail.clarion.edu
5/6/99

PE162A RE: Cuzco-Machu Picchu
Go with an outfitter. The cost is little more than going by yourself (a penny-pinching Peruvian friend figured this out), and you won't be sorry. I went with Santiago Espinoza. He's working for an outfitter at Plateros 328, just a half block off the Plaza de Armas in Cusco. The phone is 623 514 or 233 680, but it's easier to talk to someone at the shop who will book you for the trek. Santiago is fabulous. You will have no complaints and will trek with nice people from all over the world. Go line it up when you first get to Cusco to find out which day the next trip is leaving.
Catherine Joslyn
cjoslyn@mail.clarion.edu
5/6/99
PE159A RE: Traveling to Highlands & Inca Trail
In Cusco, stay at the Hospedaje Familiar del Doctor Elaez, on Avenida Grau 444, phone (011 from US) 51 Peru, 84 Cusco, 23 23 66. Don't speak English but can suggest what you'd like to pay ($10 a night might be acceptable, private bath), don't need advance reservation, good people. You needn't worry about your things; the only people who work there are family and their godchildren, simple good people. The elderly father in law as well as Rene Tito, the owner, are well known huesers, the Andean version of chiropractors. I heard good things but never tried it. You will smell essence of eucalyptus in the hall from his office. Tell them Senyorita Catherine sent you. I lived with them for several months. Go to the market on Puente Grau (the bridge, 2 blocks away) to buy fruit. Take only the cash you need to make your purchase, nothing else.
Catherine Joslyn
cjoslyn@mail.clarion.edu
5/6/99
PE139 University Research Expeditions Program
Join a University of California research team. Learn new skills, make new friends and help contrinbute to our knowledge of the planet. No special experience is necessary. Your curiosity, adaptability and willingness to share the costs and lend a helping hand are the main qualifications. Each participant is an active member of the field team and contributes an equal share to cover the project costs. As a donation to the University of California, this contribution is tax deductible.

Expeditions include:
Moche Ceremonial Center of Ancient Peru
Prehistoric Settlers of Lake Titicaca, Peru (Pending)

For more information, see http://urep.ucdavis.edu/

University Research Expeditions Program (UREP)
urep@ucdavis.edu
2/3/99

PE130 My Month in Peru: Ayacucho-Andahuaylas-Sacred Valley, Part 2
In Peru 9/14-10/15/98. See part 1 re background. $1US=3.03 Soles. Ayacucho-Andahuaylas by bus of Ayacucho Tours, 18 soles. Bad 12 hour ride. Forget where I stayed. The place is worth walking around for a few hours. Andahuaylas-Abancay via Transportes Sr. Huanta. 5 1/2 hrs. cost 12 soles. Abancay-Cusco via Expreso Wari. 6 hrs. cost 14 soles. Cusco - Hostal Apu Wasi was a real find; 12 soles per person. Nice lady owns the place. Several blocks above Plaza de Armas; not much noise. Cusco is the kind of place where you will be eating pizza while listening to a live band playing Andean music. At the same time, World Wrestling Federation is on the restaurant's television. The tourist information office (1 1/2 blocks from the Plaza de Armas) is excellent. You can spend as much or as little money as you want in Cusco. They have guided tours for everything; however, you can do it all on your own if you like. You can visit the ruins or hang out with other foreigners. More white folks in Cusco than anywhere else in Peru. Did a day trip taking local bus to Tambo Machay and walking to town via the various ruins Sacsuayhuaman was the highlight of the day). Was escorted to Sacsuayhuaman by a class of 8 year old schoolgirls; speaking Espanol has its advantages. The ruins of Pisac are very worthwhile. Lots of walking to do there, so start the day early. Cusco-Ollantaytambo. Local bus to Urubamba, another at the Urubamba station to Ollantaytambo; 2 to 2/2 hours, total cost 3.50 soles. Recommending spending the day in Ollan. The ruins there are worthwhile & the earlier you visit them the better. Eat at Restaurant La Nusta. Good, simple food. Had lasagna at La Fortaleza & got a bad case of the shits & upset stomach. Accomodation not cheap. $10U.S. at Las Orquedias. Hostal Kapuly & El Albergue are at the train station, 2km from town. Reserve ahead; lots of groups doing the Inca Trail book these places in advance. I stored my backpack at Las Orquedias & went on the local train to Aguas Calientes (9 soles & 2 hrs.) with just a day pack. Stayed at Hostal Machu Picchu (at train station) 15 soles. They will try to sell you a room with a private bathroom at gringo price first. Machu Picchu - Can take a bus from Aguas Calientes to & from Machu Picchu @ $3 U.S. each way. Walked up from hotel via well-marked footpath in 1 1/2 hours. Cost $10US to enter. Save ticket & present it the next day, will cost only $5US additional. Can buy guide to Machu Picchu (25 soles in Espanol, or 30 soles for a prettier one in English) at entrance. 1st local bus goes up at 6:30A.M., last one returns at 5:30P.M. Tour buses from Cusco start arriving at 10:00A.M., and leave about 3:00P.M. If you do not do the Inca Trail (I do not), I suggest getting there early (before the 1st tour bus arrives) and leaving late (after the last tour bus leaves). This is what I did. It is a more tranquil, sane way to visit Machu Picchu, without meeting your Aunt Mabel from Pascagoula. Like the Taj Mahal, Machu Picchu does live up to its hype. The place has a mystical aura to it. The best place to take a photo is the Puente del Inca, unless you want to walk 1-2 hours to Winay Wayna. It was rainy & foggy the 2 days I was at Machu Picchu 9/29 & 9/30; I did not see the sun. Do not climb Huayna Picchu (one of the mountains in the back of all Machu Picchu photos) during or just after it rains. When I was there, an unfortunate tour guide lost his footing at the top and fell to his death. Aguas Calientes was invented for tourists. You cannot get Peruvian food there, such as sancochado (a tasty potato / vegetable soup) or quinua (a grain similar to hominy), and you will hear more English and German spoken than Spanish. As in segment 1, I recommend all places I stayed to every traveller. Part 3 will deal with my visit to Parque Nacional Lauca (Chile), Arequipa & environs.
Jeff Rothman
contador@earthlinkl.net
11/2/98
PE129 Month in Peru Lima-Huancayo-Ayacucho; Part #1
Would like to provide help for people going to Peru; was there 9/14-10/15/98. Exchange rate: $1US = 3.03 Nuevo Soles. Before you go:

1) Check out cheap flight prices in travel sections of major metropolitan newspapers & on the internet.
2) Get travel insurance.
3) Download "How Not To Get Robbed in Peru" (from SAEC) & read every word of it. Lots of people are getting robbed in Peru, but in spite of this, I strongly recommend you go.
I Stayed at All Places Listed Below; All of Them Were Clean. Lima - Hostal Ibarra on 359 Avenida Tacna, #1402 & #1502. 15 or 20 soles per person per night. Communal bathroom; cooking facilities. Owner like you wish your mother would have been when you were a child. Phone 427-1035, Fax 427-8603, E-Mail: asotil@hotmail.com or pension_ibarra@lettera.net. Museo de Oro, Museo Nacional, and Museums of the Catacombs & the Inquisition are all worthwhile. I also visited the Fortaleza Real San Felipe in Callao. Lima is actually worth several days. Go to Miraflores if you want to see trees & experience less noise. If you need eyewear, Calle Huancavelica in Lima has many stores & the prices are good. Lima-Huancayo - Bus from the Company Mariscal Caceres. 7 hours on paved road (the only paved road in the Peruvian Andes. Forget the cost. Effective 9/26/98, you can go from Lima to Huancayo by train. Huancayo is a nice Andean town, with lots of various types of artisans in nearby villages. Saw people in Cochas make burilado de mate (wooden gourds) at their homes & hung out with local curandero. Contact Lucho Hurtado at La Cabana restaurant. He is incredibly knowledgeable about the area; if you have the time, he does interesting jungle & highland trips of between 3 & 5 days. Stayed at Casa de mi Abuela on Calle Giraldez; 12 - 15 soles per person. Huancayo-Ayacucho - nasty 11 hour bus ride. Ayacucho was my favorite town of the trip. The only place in Peru where I was not hassled by taxi drivers when I arrived into town. It is very 'tipico', and untouristy. Anything you buy here will be cheaper (and possibly of better quality?) than in Cusco. Interesting & large market (good juice bar). Lots of cuy for sale here (I think they taste good). Visited Quinua & the Pampa de Ayacucho, where the Peruanos freed their country from the Espanoles. The Barrio Santa Ana has lots of artesanos. Gerardo Fernandez Palomino sells good quality rugs @ Jr. Incian 105 & high quality guitars are for sale at Guitarras 'Ramos' at Jr. Raymondi 214 - Puca Cruz (both in Barrio Santa Ana). Get a nice view from the Mirador. Stayed at Hostal Samary (12 or 15 soles in a room I shared). Keep a close eye on your gear. a Dutch woman had a credit card stolen from her backpack in the market, and a German couple had an expensive camera stolen at the bus station.
Jeff Rothman
contador@earthlink.net
11/2/98

PE128 Looking for information on likichiri
Hello all. I am doing research on the altiplano (mostly Quechua & Aymara) legends of the likichiri, pishtacos, and sacaojos. They are supposedly entities that stalk victims on the altiplano and steal their fat or other organs. Occasionally foreigners are attacked and accused of being one pf these entities. If you know anything about these legends, or know where I might look, please let me know. Thank you.
Ben Radford
bradford@webt.com
11/2/98
PE060 assistance in arequipa
We have had great reliable service from Ricardo Santander at GoldTour (206-B Jerusalen) in Arequipa.  he speaks good english and has e-mail: goldtour@mail.interplace.com.pe  he has arranged lodging in various places including colca canyon and puerto inka (chala onthe coast) gotten us bus tickets, drivers and accurate info for further inof email me or call us (jane and belden in maine (207) 255-4244)  Buen Viaje!
jane heart
jheart@nemaine.com
1/22/98
PE056 Cuzco: reliable, honest provider
If you need a contact in Cuzco who can arrange ANYTHING, from Inca trail, Macchu Pichu to obsure sites and ruins (also P. Maldonaado, Iquitos, Nazca,Puno, Paucartambo, Tres Cruces etc) we highly recommend Wilbert Salas Atasi home: in Cusco (84) 231601 office/FAX (84) 236927. He speaks excellent english and 7 other tongues, has a great sense of humor and is very aware and involved with trying to preserve the culture and spirituality of the Andes. His wife Vilma works with him and also speaks some English.Wilbert has an unfailingly can do attitude. he listens and is responsive to special needs and interests. he also sometimes guides the IT himself. We are pleased to answer any ?? you may have at this e-mail or call (207) 255-4244. We feel after severaltrips that it is very important to have a trustworthy ally in Peru and Wilbert is that and much more. Buen Viaje!
jane heart
jheart@nemaine.com
1/5/98

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