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South American Explorers |
Name: Fern Thomas
Email: thomasfm@bigfoot.com
Trip Dates: February 1999
Trip Rating: 8
Route:São Paulo to Salvador
VASP Airlines R$243
Bus from Airport R$1.85 (bus goes along coast road and beaches and arrives in Pelourinho
in approximately 1 hour
Salvador to Recife/Olinda
Intapemirim Bus R$48; 11 hours;
>From Recife to Olinda: From bus terminal take metro to town (Recife stop) – 20
minutes. From there take bus marked Rio Doce to Olinda (20 Minutes)
Recife to Natal:
Empresa Auto Viacao Progresso; R$15.60; 4 hours
Natal to Canoa Quebrada: Bus to Aracati then combi (approximately 20 minutes)
Hotels, Restaurants, Internet:
Salvador:
Pousada Glojú (R$13 per person with private bath and hot water – basic) in
Pelourinho, around the corner from Albergue das Laranjeiras (R$15 per person, including
café) Good central location, friendly.
Restaurante Escola SENAC for buffet of local foods. Food is prepared and served by students of the culinary school. All you can eat R$16. Excellent service but food is average and over priced.
Internet: Ladeira do Passo, No 01, 1o andar, Pelourinho, Salvador, BA R$7/hour
Recife:
Restaurant Maxime, Av Boa Viagem 21. Delicious seafood. Huge portions.
Natal:
Pousada Porta do Sol, R. Francisco Gurgel 9057; Tel: 236-2555. R$40 for double, private
bath with hot water. Hotel has ocean view, pool, stairs down to beach.
Recommended restaurants in Ponta Negra: Tabua de Carne and Paçoca de Pilão. Very popular food court with live band is Praia Shopping in Ponta Negra.
Canoa Quebrada:
Pousada Oasis Do Rei, Rua Nascer do Sol, 112 – CEP 62800-000; Tel/Fax: 088-416-1081;
Canoa Quebrada, Aracati, Ceará; http://www.canoa-quebrada.com/oasis; R$35 for double with
private bath, hot water, ocean view, pool, restaurant, bar; Austrian owned; very nice,
recommended.
São Luis:
Lord Hotel, Rua Joaquim Távora, 258 – Centro, São Luis, Maranhão, Tel:
098-221-4655; R$40 double with private bath, hot water, basic, good location.
Internet: HCG Engenharsa de Sistemas in São Francisco Ph: 098-235-2722
Trip Comments: Don't miss the Northeast coast of Brazil, particularly Salvador which is a beautifully restored city, wonderful people (though be prepared for many kids begging) and wonderful music.
Salvador:
Tourist office at Praça Terreiro de Jesus – very helpful, English speaking.
Museu de Cidade – small museum with Orixa exhibit and nice view of Pelourinho from
top floors- worthwhile .
Museu do Reconcavo is under renovation. Check if open before making the trip.
Try to be in Salvador on a Tuesday or Friday. On these days every week, live bands play in
the plazas of Pelourinho. Some are free, others up to R$20.
At Mercado Modelo – capoeira exhibitions, but expect to pay for any photos you take
and many beggars.
Olinda:
Small historic town 20 minutes from Recife. A UNESCO World Heritage Site. Worth a visit if
near Recife. Old churches and original Portuguese and Dutch buildings. A poor city with a
reputation for muggings so it is advisable to take one of the guides from Praça de Carmo.
The tour takes about 2 hours and guides are trained, some bilingual. Guides tell you that
price is discretionary but expect to pay R$15-R$20 as half of the fee goes to a home for
street children (confirmed by several sources).
Natal Area:
Excellent tour company. Turismo Diferenciado; Tel: 084-985-0585/218-3569; ask for Douglas N. Souza. Offer tours to Litoral Norte, Litoral Sur, Pipa, City Tour, Natal by night. Small groups, good prices, very friendly and helpful.
Genipabu Beach – very popular among Brazilians. Known for sand dunes. Rent dune buggies or tobaggon down sand dunes on beach. About 2 hours by bus from Ponta Negra. Direct buses from Rodaviaria Velho (1 hour).
Canoa Quebrada:
Beautiful beaches, dune buggies along the beach. Small fishing town. Favorite among
Brazilians. Highly recommended.
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