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NAME: Tim Wenzel
ttwenzel@citynet.net
DATES:
November 1999
EXCHANGE:
R$1.92/US$
WEATHER:
Hot days, cooler evenings
TERRAIN:
urban
TRIP RATING: 8
COUNTRY: Brazil
ROUTE:
Rio to Salvador, Varies using Brazil airpass
airport to hotel: R$48.94 (prepaid taxi because we arrived so late at night- Visa
accepted). Return from downtown to airport cost R$2.10, executivo bus (Ondina) runs
every 15 min down Ave. 7 Setembro through Barra to airport. Taxi from Pelourihno to hotel
cost R$5.50. Bus is around R$0.80 if I remember right.
HOTELS:
Hotel Caramuru, Ave. 7 de Setembro 2125, 336-9951, cost: R$40 for two persons. OK
hotel, our room (#8) was a bit moldy since it is partially underground, threadbare sheets,
no A/C but powerful ceiling fan. Friendly day clerk, stuffy night clerk. Restaurant:
Jamaican (name Surle Quilorbo do Pelo, or something like that - I can't read my own
writing in my trip notes), located upstairs about 100m from the Praça da Sé on Rua
Alfredo de Brito. Excellent and very vegetarian friendly.
ESSENTIALS:
camera
COMMENTS:
Praça da Sé area is pretty touristy and you will get harassed by people selling
necklaces and Bonfim ribbons. Get some from the beginning and wear them to ward off
the others (although one enterprising little boy, upon my showing him my Bonfim ribbon,
said "what, only one??"). Igreja Sao
Francisco is particularly worthwhile seeing. Interested in rocks and gems? Go to
Lasbonfim Gemstones and Jewels, s. side of Praça da Sé and talk to Joaquim Simoes Lima
Filho (speaks English very well). They are wholesalers and have a back room full of
interesting specimens.
Sitting on the steps at Largo do Pelourinho late in the day and drinking a beer was
particularly nice. The local guy sitting next to me, after about 1/2 hour, suddenly
reached over and shook hands with me before going back to watching the street scene.
A half hour later, he again shook hands, said goodbye and wandered off into the
dusk. A guy sitting on the other side of me got up, walked up to the strange statue
behind me and talked to it heatedly before heading home. Also fun was a trip to
Igreja NS do Bomfim. We took the Ribeira bus from the base of the elevator north.
On arrival, you are surrounded by people with ribbons - give them R$1 for 1 bunch
and you're off the hook (the ribbons are pretty). These people are not targeting tourists,
but rather the large number of Brazilians that come to the church because of its
reputation for miracles. Sit inside and enjoy the breeze and later see the street!.
For a nice walk, go out to the front of the church. With your back to the
church, strike off directly away from the church, uphill on the right-hand side road. At
the top of the hill is a hospital, a bus stop and some vendors. Turn left here and
go down the road, follow it all the way to the bay. Just before the fort (Forte Mont
Serrat) is a nice place for lunch (self serve, per kilo pricing- Bar Restaurante
Sorbeteria Forte). Fort wasn't open but wander down to the lighthouse and see the strange
old building out there. From here, wander back towards town along the beach until
the road turns left by a pretty church. One block further you can catch a Praia
Grande bus that will take you all the way back to Ave 7 Setembro (or anywhere in between).
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