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Written by: -
Fern Thomas
Miami Beach, FL
Dates: - January 1999
Email: - fmthomas@yahoo.com
Comments: - The Puerto Eden was an enjoyable way of making our south
through the fjords and canals of Patagonia. The ship is large and comfortable. Plenty of
deck space as well as a large lounge. The food is adequate. Entertainment includes videos
of old movies, a party on the last night. The scenery was pretty but don't expect to see
penguins or huge icebergs or snow if making the trip in the summer.
Torres del Paine is absolutely one of the most beautiful places we have ever seen. The
scenery is spectacular and there is a large variery of wildlife. It is very even for even
the most novice trekker to get around. 5 days in the park is the optimal time allowing one
to see the most popular locations of Torres mirador (beautiful 5 hour hike from Refugion
Torre), Valley Frances and Glacier Grey on foot. All can be done in 4 days, but more
rushed. There are refugios at all of the sites that charge P7,500 per person/night for
dormitory bed in rooms of 4 to 6 per room. Meals are expensive at (P4,000-P5,000 per) but
refugions permit use of the kitchen, though you may have to wait until after they have
served their guests. Bring food from Puerto Natales if you are going to cook. During the
peak season reserve places in the refugios before getting to the park as they do fill up.
Refugion El Torre, Chileno and Serrano have the same owner and are very nice with clean
large bright rooms and hot water. Refugio Grey, owned by Andescape is in an excellent
location, but more basic with no electricity and poor water supply.
There are many camping grounds in the Park. Well maintained and easy to locate. All are
marked on the Torres del Paine Trekking Map which can be found in Puerto Montt, Puerto
Natales, on the Puerto Eden, or purchased at the Park. It is not really necessary to buy
on if you are staying at the refugios as they have all have them posted on the walls and
the trails are well marked. P2,000 for camping.
If doing the circuit you must have your own camping equipment as there are not refugios on
some of the days of this 9 to 11 day hike.
There are also a number of upscale hotels in the Park. Explorers has been recommended
numerous times. It is 5* and expensive, but worth it, we understand.
A 6 hour ice hike on Glacier Grey can be done with the agency: Amerindia (office located
in Puerto Natales and they can also be contacted through Refugio Grey)
Many travel agents offer one day tours to Petito Moreno Glacier in Argentina for
US$60-$70. It is 7 hours each way with about 2 hours at the glacier. Those that we met
loved the glacier but felt that this tour was too long and did not recommend it.
Exchange Rate: - P477=US$1
Rating: - 9
Weather: - Sunny and Beautiful
Terrain: - Patagonia canals and fjords and national park of Torres del Paine
Hotels: - Puerto Montt:
Res Central, 111 Lota, near bus station.
Large bright clean rooms, cable to, friendly
P4,000 pp with shared bath and w/o breakfast
P6,000 pp with private bath and breakfast
Puerto Natales:
There are many hospedajes in Puerto Natales. Most charge P3,000 pp, including breakfas. We
stayed at 153 Bornies (No Sign) for P3,000 without breakfast. Basic but comfortable,
lovely family, very helpful, clean and hot water.
Restaurant: Casa Blanca on Prat - excellent salmon at very reasonable prices
Route: - Navimag's Puerto Eden cargo ship
Departs Puerto Montt every Monday - boarding at 4pm.
Arrives in Puerto Natales Thursday 1'ish
Variety of classes at different prices. The least expensive is the economic class for $200
for the 3 nights in a dormitory with shared bath, 3 meals per day. Many say that they had
trouble booking tickets. We went to the Navimag office in Santiago 3 weeks in advance,
reserved our space and paid the morning of our departure in Puerto Montt by credit card
with no problem.
Contact Info:
Santiago: Avda El Bosque Norte 0440 Piso 1, Tel#02-2035030
Puerto Montt: Angelmo 2187, Tel#65-253754
Puerto Natales: Pedro Montt 262, Tel#67-35111
Bus from Santiago to Puerto Montt:
IGI Llaima
P8,000
15 hours
From Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine
In the peak season there is an afternoon bus to Torres del Paine that leaves around 2:30
with Bus JB. You should be able to catch this one on the day you arrive on the Puerto Eden
if taking that route. There are a number of bus companies that go to TDP (JB, Gomez,
Andescape) most go in the morning around 7-8 am. P4,000 one way/P7,000 with return. Note
that if you buy return ticket from one company that you must take that company back to
Puerto Natales. This limits your flexibility on the return but helps ensure a bus back.
Bus transportation within the park is P1,500 unless you go with the same company you took
from Puerto Natales.
We used Andescape and found that there schedule was poor for connections with the ferry
from Pudeto to Pehoe. Bus JB seemed much better coordinated. Andescape also overbooks the
buses and does not keep to it's schedule. We had no problems but many did, including one
couple that were left overnight in the park because the bus left without them.
Within Torres del Paine:
The boat on Lago Grey was not working while we were there. The ferry from Pudeto to Pehoe
is 1 hour and costs P6,000, one way - 3 times a day; 2 in the morning; 1 in the afternoon.
It is a good way to get to the other side of the park if you are short on time; but
beward,, on days with strong winds the ferry does not run. The nearest bus from Pehoe is a
5 hour walk (flat/easy) to the administration office - allow for the extra time if it is
windy.
Essentials: - For Puerto Eden: Bring seasickness medication if you
believe you may have problems. The trip is generally calm, but on the second day we did
get into open waters that caused some problems for some of the passengers.
Puerto Eden: You don't get off the boat for three days so bring a good book and a deck of
cards.
Torres del Paine: Hiking boots, sunscreen, blister kit, warm clothes for the evenings,
sleeping bag.
Interests: - Birding, Boating
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